You are a Twig Daddy,
you just don’t know it yet
For most people, growing long-living edible plants is a new adventure. Uncertainty is natural, but don’t let it stop you!
Here’s some of the most common worries we hear from friends:
“What will survive the winter in my area?”
“My yard is shady, will anything grow?”
“How do I plant this thing?”
“How much should I water?”
You can do better than this
All of these are very reasonable questions with very reasonable answers. The problem is that most people give up too soon, thinking:
“I just don’t have a green thumb!”
Spoiler Alert: There’s no such thing! It’s not a you-have-it or you-don’t kind of thing. Growing edible plants for long-term abundance is mostly about a few key mentalities that anyone can cultivate:
Courage - Growing a new plant is a leap into the unknown. You won’t know it all when you start, which means taking action despite the uncertainty.
Curiosity - The plant will show you what it needs over time – truly! The key is keeping an open mind to learning as you go.
Patience - Many of these fruit and nut plants take a few years to start producing. That may mean a few seasons of nurturing them, watching, learning… The wait is worth it!
Resilience - You’ll face setbacks. It’s okay! You won’t have a 100% survival rate. That’s normal. Don’t let that discourage you. Learn from mistakes, try again, and grow stronger.
Relationship - Treat your plants like a friend. Say a little ‘hello’ when you see ‘em, even if you’re rushing. Make plans to catch up, when you have a bit more time. Notice when they’re looking sad, and try to figure out what might cheer them up. And of course, celebrate when they thrive!
The truth is, most people already have these qualities! That’s 90% of the work. The other 10% is detailed in a super accessible way in the sections below.
If you can learn these few things, you can grow anything we sell!
What to know before buying
Know your Zone
Every place in the world has a Zone number designated by US Department of Agriculture. Learn your zone and memorize it, and you’ll be able to find plants that grow well near you!
The USDA Hardiness Zone classifies place by their coldest winter temperatures. Basically, knowing your zone helps answer the question: "Will this plant survive the winter?"
All the plants we sell are labeled by a zone range — so you know if they’ll thrive near you. Here’s what each zone means:
Zone 3 = Coldest: Winter temps get as low as -40°F (parts of northern U.S. and Canada)
Zones 4 - 10: Covers most of the continental US - each zone shifts up by 10° (see the map below)
Zone 11 = Warmest: Winter temps get no colder than 40°F (the far southern tip of Florida)
Use your zip code to find your zone here: USDA Hardiness Zone Map
Full Sun or Partial Shade?
Where you plant matters! It’s important to know roughly how much sun your plant will get there:
“Full Sun” means 6+ hours of direct sunlight
“Partial Shade” means 3-6 hours of direct sunlight
Anything less than 3 hours of direct sunlight is considered shade, and requires plants that are “shade tolerant”.
Recommended Tool: The Sun Seeker app helps visualize sun patterns in your yard.
We’ve categorized all our plants by their light requirements. You can easily search using one of these categories, based on your needs:
Pollination needs
Some plants produce fruit and nuts all on their own. Others need a mate to produce fruit. Basically this means: sometimes you’ll need two plants of the same species to get the fruit you want and sometimes you’ll only need one.
Every plant in our catalogue is clearly labeled to help you figure this out:
“Self-Fertile” = Every plant can produce its own fruit!
“Partially Self-Fertile” = These plants can produce fruit without any other companion plant but they will produce more fruit with a second plant of the same species, as long as it’s of a different variety.
“Needs two to Pollinate” = To get fruit, you’ll need at least two plants of the same species but different varieties.
“Needs Male & Female Plants” = To get fruits, you need two plants. One of them needs to be “male” / produce pollen. The other needs to be “female” / have an ovary. Only the female plant will produce the fruit.
The truth is, the world of plant sex is varied and fascinating! There are myriad more variations than the four explained above. Some plants have male and female sex organs on the same branch. Others shift from male to female and back again every season. You’re welcome to research all that, but the basics above is all you functionally need to get started.
Every plant we sell is labeled in this way, so you’ll know if you can buy one plant to get fruit, or will need two!
Key Planting Tips
In terms of getting new plants established, here are the few best practices to follow:
Planting
Dig wide, not deep: Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Keep the soil you dig out off to the side
Loosen roots: Gently tease roots apart to encourage outward growth. Splay them out, as best you can
Backfill with native soil: Gently put the soil back in around the roots. Don’t use compost or fertilizer – the plant will do best by adapting the soil you already have!
Water it in! Water thoroughly after planting (see below)
Mulching
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch (wood chips, straw etc.) around the base of the plant
Keep it away from the trunk (by about 3 inches)
Mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and enriches the soil as it breaks down. It’s the best gardening hack!
Watering:
When the weather is in the 50s, 60s, and 70s, water deeply once a week
When it’s in the 80s or 90s, twice a week
And if it’s incredibly hot, and has been for a long while (drought conditions) – every other day!
How much water”?
You want them to get roughly “1 inch” of water each time you water. Imagine a giant drinking glass that is as wide as the plant is, filled with 1 inch of water. That’s how much!
A sprinkler – running for an hour should do the trick
Drip irrigation on a timer – 90 minutes should be enough
A Watering Can – Cover the full area with water once – and wait until it all seeps in. Then do it 2-3 more times!
Note: a 2 gallon watering can can provide all the water you need for a 2-ft wide circle area. But if your plant is bigger and wider, you might need to refill your can to get your full “1 inch” of water.
Pro Tip – after you think you’re done watering, stick a finger 2 inches into the soil. If it’s moist all the way down, you’re likely good! If it’s moist the first inch and powdery dry below, keep going!
Beyond what you’ve read above, you can learn the rest as you go. Just keep paying attention, learning from mistakes, and enjoying the journey!
A note on Bare Root Plants
Twig Daddy sells “Bare Root” plants. This is different from the potted plants you’ll find at a big box store. Here’s how:
Potted plants:
Start their life in a pot and stay in a pot sometimes for years! They tend to be over-watered or under-watered, in soil that is overly compact and depleted of nutrients.
Are forced to develop with chemical fertilizers and growth regulators. They then develop an oversized plant with a very weak and small root system.
Carry soil borne pests, diseases, or fungal infections. Ever heard of jumping worms? Or spider mites? Look it up! Often these problems aren’t immediately visible and can spread to your garden once planted.
Often grown in a climate region nothing like your own, to maximize heat and sun. This means your plant won’t be used to the temperatures and winters where you are.
Overall this leads to stunted growth and a delayed establishment
With Bare Root plants, it’s a whole different story:
Cost-Effective & Eco-conscious: Bare root trees and bushes are less expensive and better for the environment than potted plants. This is because bare root plants are sold without soil or a container, which reduces shipping and handling costs, and plastic consumption, for the consumer.
Healthier Roots: Bare root plants have healthier root systems, as they haven’t been confined to a pot where roots can become cramped or damaged. This allows the roots to establish themselves more effectively once planted in the ground.
Better Establishment: Bare root plants can establish themselves more quickly and grow stronger because they are planted in the ground sooner, without the limitations of a pot. This often leads to better root development compared to potted plants that may become root-bound in the container.
Fewer Chemicals: Bare root plants are less likely to have been treated with growth regulators or excess pesticides, as they don’t spend time sitting out in nurseries or on store shelves compared to potted plants.
Ideal Planting Time: Bare root plants are typically sold in early spring or late fall, when it is an optimal time for planting. Planting them at this time can give them the best chance to grow well through the seasons.
